Diamond Grading Report – IGI

Established in 1975, The International Gemological Institute (IGI) is the largest international gemological institute. Using the standardized diamond grading methods, the IGI offers professional diamond grading reports for loose natural diamonds. Every diamond evaluated by the IGI is analyzed by several gemologists who use only state-of-the-art-equipment to accurately describe your diamond's characteristics. IGI Diamond Reports always print the date of issue, report number and include a special security seal.

I.G.I. is headquartered in Antwerp and has offices in many cities around the world like New York City, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Toronto, Los Angeles, etc.

As the world's largest independent gem certification and appraisal institute for diamonds, coloured gemstones and jewellery, IGI is a standard of excellence for industry professionals and consumers around the globe. The IGI Diamond Reports clearly discloses the details of any item it accompanies, providing confidence for both buyer and seller.

IGI Diamond Reports have different formats and presentations, customized to serve a wide range of consumer demand in our different worldwide markets. Regardless of format, every IGI Diamond Report is issued according to the strict international standards and security features for which IGI is known.

The IGI Diamond Reports include the same information as the GIA Diamond Report but without a proportions diagram. Instead, the IGI provides specific proportion measurements and a proportion grade of Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, or Excellent.

I.G.I. Certified Diamond Reports provide this information:

• Description
• Shape and Cut
• Weight
• Measurements
• Depth Percentage
• Table Percentage
• Crown Angle
• Pavilion Angle
• Culet Size
• Girdle Thickness
• Polish/Symmetry
• Clarity Grade
• Color Grade
• Fluorescence
• Comments about Diamond
• Plot of Internal and External Inclusions.

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Diamond Grading Report - GIA

Established in 1931 by Robert Shipley, The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is the one of the world’s biggest, most sophisticated, and extraordinarily consistent Diamond Grading Laboratory!
The G.I.A. headquarters and main campus is located in the city of Carlsbad, in California, with a satellite campus located in New York and some other major cities in the World.

A GIA Diamond Grading Report isn't an appraisal but a scientific blueprint of your stone's exact qualities. The most widely used and trusted means of verifying a diamond's quality and providing positive identification is a GIA Diamond Grading Report.

A GIA grading report provides an expert analysis of a diamond's quality based upon the "4Cs" of diamond grading: carat, color, cut and clarity. Because GIA is not affiliated with any commercial enterprise, impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond's quality and value is assured.

The GIA Laboratory issues diamond grading reports for loose, natural diamonds in the D-Z color range that weigh 0.15 carats or more. GIA Diamond Grading Reports are not issued for synthetics, simulants, mounted diamonds or those that have undergone unstable treatments, such as fracture filling or coating. And while reports may be issued for diamonds that have been laser drilled or HPHT processed, these stable treatments are prominently disclosed on the report.

GIA diamond grading reports always include the date of issue, report number and laser registry if the diamond has been laser inscribed. A Diamond Grading Report documents the specific characteristics of a diamond.

Details Documented in the Diamond Grading Report

• Report number: A unique number assigned to a diamond and registered in GIA's global database.

• Shape and Cutting Style: The diamond shape and cutting style.
  

• Measurements: This includes dimensions of the diamond as minimum diameter - maximum diameter x depth (for round diamonds) or length x width x depth (for fancy shapes).
  

• Carat Weight: The weight of diamond listed to the nearest hundredth of a carat.
  

• Proportions: Various characteristics of the diamond are underlined here. These include:

Depth: The height of a gemstone measured from the culet to the table.

Table: Located at the top of the diamond, the table is the largest facet of a diamond.

Girdle: Range of girdle thickness.

• Finish: Grades that represent a diamond's surface and facet placement.

• Culet: Appearance, or lack thereof, of the culet facet.
  

• Polish: Rating the overall smoothness of the diamond's surface.
  

• Proportion Diagram: A map of the diamond's actual proportions.
  

• Reference Diagram: This approximates the shape and cutting style of the diamond. It also indicates clarity characteristics in the stone. Key to symbols used on the diagram is also provided.
  

• Color Grade: A grading which assesses the absence of color in a diamond.
  

• Clarity Grade: Clarity grade determined under 10x magnification.
  

• Cut Grade: A grade of cut as determined by a diamond's face-up appearance, design and craftsmanship.
  

• Symmetry: Measuring the shape, alignment and placement of the diamond's facets in relation to one another as well as the evenness of the outline.
  

• Fluorescence: Color, and strength of color when diamond is viewed under UV light.
  

• Comments: A description of additional diamond characteristics not already mentioned in the report.
  

• Clarity Plot: A map of the approximate size, type, and position of inclusions as viewed under a microscope.
  

• Grading scales: GIA grading scales on color and clarity are provided. The clarity grade provides grading on a scale which lists from flawless to included. Color grading is provided on a scale from colorless to light yellow, brown or gray. Color grading is achieved by comparing stones to master comparison diamonds.
  

• Security features: To ensure that the certificate is secure and cannot be forged, GIA certificates come with certain security features. These include hologram, watermark, an embossed seal, chemical sensitivity feature, microprint lines and security screen are also provided to ensure that the certificate is original.

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Diamond Shapes: Radiant Cut Diamond

Radiant Cut Diamond is a square or rectangular shape with clipped corners combining the elegance of the emerald shape and the brilliance and sparkle of the round shape. 

This square or rectangular cut combines the elegance of the emerald shape diamond with the brilliance of the round, and its 70 facets maximize the effect of its color refraction. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon.


Radiant-cut diamonds can vary in their degree of rectangularity. The length-to-width ratio will determine the diamond's outline, or what it will look like when viewed from the top. The ratio of the length to the width should be about 1.3 -1.5:1.

The first Radiant cut was designed by Henry Grossbard of the Radiant Cut Diamond Company (RCDC) in 1977. Prior to this invention, all diamonds with square or step-cut edges appeared less brilliant.

Grossbard invented a hybrid cutting style that revolutionised the industry's perceptions towards square or rectangular stones as he managed to create a step-cut diamond that possessed equal brilliance to triangular-faceted diamonds such as the oval and pear.

The Radiant is also the first cut to have a brilliant-facet pattern applied to both the crown & pavilion. RCDC launched the Original Radiant Cut diamond brand in 2002.

Because of its extra facets, the Radiant cut can disperse more light through the stone making it one of the most brilliant of all square- and rectangular-shaped stones. It also hides inclusions more efficiently than other shapes. As it is a hybrid cut combining the features of both brilliant and step-cuts, the Radiant is the ideal compromise and the perfect solution for someone who wants to “have it all.”

Radiant Cut Diamonds are principally used for important center stones primarily for rings but also for pendant.

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Diamond Shapes: Cushion Cut Diamond

The Cushion Cut Diamond is a four sided deep square or rectangle cut with rounded edges and 58 brilliant facets - it has a cushioned shaped girdle. The cushion cut is an antique cut that most often resembles a cross between the Old Mine Cut (a deep cut with large facets that was common in the late 19th and the early 20th centuries) and a modern oval cut. This shape is also sometimes referred to as the pillow-cut or the candlelight diamond (a reference to cuts designed prior to electric lights, when diamonds sparkled in the light provided by candles).

The cushion, pillow or candlelight cut was developed in the 19th century and has undergone several transformations and developments since. The cushion cut has especially benefited from the invention of cleaving as this process has helped to maximise the shape’s light dispersion making it more dynamic and brilliant.

A cushion cut with a length to width ratio of less than or equal to 1.05:1 will appear square to the observer. While a squarer diamond is the preference of many, some people prefer a slightly rectangular-shaped cushion diamond with length to width ratios of 1.15:1 to 1.30:1.

Many cushion cut diamonds have a culet (small facet at the bottom of the pavilion) which can become a factor if it is visible to the eye. Where other pavilion facets reflect light back, the culet acts as a window through the diamond and thus shows the color of what ever is under the diamond. If there is white metal under the culet this window often appears as just another sparkle of light that is not be noticeable but the color of a finger might be seen, especially if the culet is big enough. A medium size culet is typically the point where a culet starts to be visible to the eye. Many medium culets are not visible to the eye but some are and most slightly large and bigger culets

The recent popularity for cushion cuts began some years ago, and the demand has increased as designers and antique dealers continue to use them. Cushion cut diamonds look especially nice in antique settings so are a great choice if that is the type of ring you are seeking.

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Diamond Shapes: Trillion Cut Diamond

Triangular Brilliant, Trilliant, Trill and Trillion are generic terms referring to triangle cut diamonds. The trillion cut is an adaptation of the radiant cut but it is in a triangular shape. The trillion is a triangle that has equilateral sides and is a combination cut of the step cut and the brilliant cut diamond. Triangle diamonds may be cut with either straight sides or with sides bowed outwards, depending upon the nature of the rough.

The finished diamond contains 50 facets. An overall depth of 32 to 44 percent is most common in Trilliants. Ideally, a crown depth to pavilion depth ratio of approximately 1/3 to 2/3, as opposed to some of the foreign-cut Triangular Brilliants that can display 50/50 percent crown/pavilion proportions.

The trillion cut was first developed in Amsterdam, although the design varied dramatically depending on the rough form of the stone.

In 1962, the Henry Meyer Diamond Company of New York designed and trademarked the modern Trillion cut and over time the trillion became the generic name for all triangular brilliant cut diamonds.

Trillion cut diamonds make for striking accent or side stones, or offer a striking option for someone after a brilliant and unique solitaire.

Depth is an important factor to consider in Trillion cuts (especially where solitaires are concerned), as this can greatly affect the fire and brilliance of the stone. A well cut Trillion with great fire and brilliance can also hide inclusions fairly well.

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Diamond Shapes: Asscher Cut Diamond

The " Asscher cut diamond" is a stepped square cut, often called the "square emerald cut" and like an emerald cut, the Asscher has cropped corners in order to strengthen the diamond.

Named after its creator Joseph Asscher, owner of the Amsterdam-based diamond company of the same name, the Asscher cut was developed in the early 20th century at the birth of the stylish and popular Art Deco movement. Joseph Asscher rose to fame several years later when he was commissioned by King Edward VII to cut the famous 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond for the English crown jewels. In 1980 Her Majesty Queen Juliana of Holland granted the Asscher Diamond Company a royal title in recognition of the role the Asscher family and company had held in the diamond industry. This cut’s popularity peaked in the late 1920s but remained a somewhat rare commodity for the remainder of the century, available only in antique shops and specialised Art Deco jewellers. At the onset of the new millennium, following considerable research and development, the Asscher cut was redesigned with new specifications and additional facets for a more brilliant shine, and has since regained its popularity.

Asschers typically have the following characteristics:

• High crown
• Small table
• Deep and slightly bulging pavilion
• Wide cut corners
• Wide windmill reflection
• House of mirrors (concentric square patterns)

The Royal Asscher Cut has a high crown and 74 facets – whereas the modern square-emerald cut, and the original Asscher both have 58 facets. Today the Asscher family name is often used as a commodity term for square-emerald cuts.  It is obvious why companies want to use the world-renowned Asscher name.

Very Square Asscher cuts (Ratio of 1:1) are preferred to even slightly more rectangular looking ones. Asscher cuts should not exceed a ratio of 1.1:1.

To fully appreciate the Asscher design, it is advisable to select a diamond of higher clarity (VS2 and above for GIA and VS1 and above for EGL, to ensure it is completely eye clean).

A table and depth percentage between 60 – 73.5% and 51 - 77% respectively is also recommended.

The Asscher cut is historically one of the less common diamond ring shapes, but it has increased in popularity in recent years. It is extremely rare for a larger diamond to be given an Asscher cut.

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Diamond Shapes: Marquise Cut Diamond

The Marquise cut is boat shaped and is a variation of the round brilliant cut diamond. Marquise cuts are often chosen by woman who wish to display an independence of style. Also known as a “Navette cut” diamonds a Marquise shape diamond is the diamond that will stand out and be noticed.

The Marquise cut first appeared in Paris circa 1745 and its fascinating history can be traced back to the height of the French monarchy. King Louis XV commissioned his court jeweller to create a diamond that resembled the smile of his beautiful mistress, the Marchioness Madame de Pompadour. A well-educated and intellectual woman who exerted strong political opinions on the French court, Madame de Pompadour was the official maitresse en titre of King Louis XV between 1745 and 1750.

The shape was then developed and modified throughout the 20th century, evolving into the Marquise Brilliant cut as it is known today, seeing an especial rise in popularity between the 1960s and 1980s. The Marquise cut first appeared in Paris in approximately 1745. The fascinating history of the Marquise cut can be traced back to the height of the French monarchy reign.

Because Marquise shape diamonds are so regal looking and elongated in shape carat weight is maximised giving you the impression of a larger diamond. The length of the Marquise makes fingers appear long and slender and demands attention being a Brilliant cut diamond, full of fire and sparkle.

The marquise is usually cut as an adaptation of the 58 facet standard brilliant (33 crown, 25 pavilion), the same as the round brilliant. However, the pavilion can be cut with either 4, 6 or 8 pavilion main facets. The crown cut is sometimes modified in the marquise to form what is called a "French Tip," where the bezel facet at the point of the stone is eliminated.

A marquise cut with a length to width ratio of approximately 2:1 is the norm. For those who prefer a rounder look, choose a ratio closer to 1.5:1. For those who prefer a more elongated shape, look for a ratio of 2.25:1

In the marquise brilliant, as with pear shapes and other elongated fancy shapes, there is an increased likelihood of having a "bow tie." This is a dark area in the shape of a man's bow tie that occurs when the cut of facets reflecting light are not optimum. This facet misalignment can detract from the brilliance, especially if it is an exaggerated or overly dark bow tie effect.

It is important that the Marquise is not too shallow so as to avoid light passing through the back of the diamond and diminishing its brilliance and fire.

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Diamond Shapes: Oval Cut Diamond

The oval cut diamond’s technique name is ‘oval modified brilliant’, based upon its shape and modifications of the traditional round brilliant configuration.

Although oval shaped diamonds were first introduced over 200 years ago, the modern oval cut was invented in the early 1960s by leading Russian cutter Lazare Kaplan. The cut eventually earned him a place in the Jewellers International Hall of Fame, however, Kaplan also left his mark on the diamond industry with his unique ability to split a rough diamond into smaller stones with a single blow. This process is known as cleaving.

The oval is seen most frequently cut in the standard 58 facet brilliant pattern, but can have a varying number of pavilion main facets ranging from 4, 6 or 8.

The length-to-width ratio will determine the diamond's outline, or what it will look like when viewed from the top. An oval cut with a length to width ratio of approximately 1.40 - 1.60 is the preference of most diamond buyers. For those who prefer a rounder look, choose a ratio closer to 1.15:1. For those who prefer a more elongated shape, look for a ratio of 1.70:1 .

When a rough material is poorly shaped or contains defective flaws that prevent it from being turned into a single stone, it must be split along the grain. Kaplan became famous for his expertise in taking stones that were otherwise deemed unworthy and transforming them into beautifully cut diamonds.

Ratio is an important aspect to consider with the oval shape as it can have a significant impact on both the light dispersion within the stone and the appearance of the finger. When selecting an oval shape it is important to reconcile the relative benefits of the longer shape (larger ratio) and the more rounded shape (smaller ratio). The former will better elongate the finger, while a more rounded shape will better prevent the bow-tie effect.

Like the pear shaped diamond, the oval cut can fall victim to the "bow-tie effect" -- an undesirable dark area near the center of the diamond. It's not unusual to see "some" bow-tie if you examine an oval-shaped diamond from various angles and in different lights, but what you don't want is an obvious black/dark spot that is dull from every angle and in all lights.

Oval diamonds give an even, perfectly symmetrical design popular among women with small hands or short fingers. Oval diamonds have an elongated shape which can make a woman's finger appear longer.

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Diamond Shapes: Heart Cut Diamond

The technical name for Heart Cut Diamond Stone is the ‘Heart-Shaped Modified Brilliant’, based upon its shape and modifications of the traditional round brilliant configuration. Heart shaped diamonds are actually pear shaped diamonds with a distinctive cleft on top instead of the rounded edges. The heart shaped diamond can be quite fiery with excellent sparkle. The shape of the heart makes this diamond highly desirable for romantic occasions such as Valentine's Day and anniversaries. It is often referred to as one of the fancy cut diamonds and colored diamonds are often used for this special cut.

The exact origins of the heart brilliant are unknown although being a modified brilliant cut it may have appeared as early as the 16th century. However, gems which would today be classified as ‘triangular with rounded corners’ or ‘drops’ were at one time described as being heart-shaped. Indeed, this is evident from the many descriptions in French inventories dating from the middle of the seventeenth century. The first recorded heart shape diamond appears in a portrait entitled “The Gonzaga Princess,” painted circa 1605 by Frans Pourbus the younger. The large piece of jewellery on the princess’s left sleeve contains a variety of different cuts, some of which are thought to be versions of the heart-like ‘drops’ popular in France at the time. The heart shape is also mentioned in a book written in 1655 by Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, the French merchant-traveller who found his fortune in the precious stone trade and famously brought the Hope Diamond to France. In the text, he recalls seeing the “Heart Diamond,” a 36-carat heart-shaped brilliant in an ornament in the treasure of Aurangzeb, in India.

The most important elements to consider with the heart shape are the quality of the curved cut and finish as these determine the sparkle of the gem.

The heart shape is a brilliant cut which typically contains 59 facets but that can be modified so that the number of pavilion main facets may be 6, 7, or 8.

The length-to-width ratio will determine the diamond's outline, or what it will look like when viewed from the top. A heart-shaped stone is usually proportioned with equal length and width, approximating a ratio of 1:1. A length to width ratio of between 0.90:1 and 1.15:1 is preferred. The ratio should not fall below 0.80:1 or exceed 1.20:1 .

The shadow caused by the bow-tie effect can be reduced by altering the depth of the pavilion, and adjusting the angles of the table and facets to better diffuse light in the central area. This effect also occurs in the Pear, Marquise and Oval shapes.

Heart shaped diamonds are sometimes considered romantic, but they can be difficult to cut. The skill of the cutter greatly determines the beauty of heart shaped diamonds.

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Diamond Shapes: Pear Cut Diamond

The technical name of the pear is "pear-shaped modified brilliant," based on its shape and modifications of the traditional round brilliant configuration. A hybrid cut, combining the best of the Round Brilliant and the Marquise, it is shaped like a sparkling teardrop.

The pear shape usually has the 58 facet brilliant pattern, but can be cut with different numbers of pavilion mains of 8, 7, 6, or 4 facets. The teardrop shape has a round or oval shape on half the facet pattern while the other half resembles a marquise with the sides tapering to a point.
The first pear-shaped diamond was created in the 1400s by Flemish cutter Lodewyk van Berquem of Bruges, inventor of the diamond-polishing wheel, or scaif.

This invention enabled him to polish all the facets of the diamond to optimize light reflection within it. It was from this watershed moment onwards that diamonds began to be used in jewellery.

Van Berquem also pioneered the now common place symmetrical arrangement of facets on a stone, this in turn led him to fashion the pear-shaped "Pendeloque" or "Briolette" cut.

When purchasing a Pear Shaped Diamond, it's extremely important to pay attention to quality and to select the highest grade cut you can afford.

In a pear, look for a well-shaped head and even shoulders with a length-to-width ratio of 1.45-1.70. Pear-shaped diamonds work great for pendants and drop earrings.

The optimal pear shape is one with a polished girdle and a rounded base, or “even shoulders”. However, much like the oval cut, a more attenuated pear shape may elongate the fingers, so it is important to reconcile these two qualities. Additionally, colour is often more visible towards the tip of the pear shape, so to ensure an even tone throughout the stone it is advisable to opt for colours H and above.

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Diamond Shapes: Emerald Cut Diamond

The "emerald" cut of diamond is another square or rectangular shaped diamond. As opposed to the brilliant cut, however, with its triangular or four sided diamond cut facets, the "emerald" cut of diamond has step cut facets. The term "step cut" refers to the step-like look of the facet cuts.

The emerald cut has 58 facets (25 crown, 8 girdle and 25 pavilion). Because of the angle, size and shape of the facets, the emerald cut shows less brilliance and fire (dispersion) than the other brilliant cut diamonds. However, the emerald cut stone reveals a classic beauty and elegance not seen in other cuts. The look of an emerald cut diamond is subtle and understated with less "flash," or reflection and refraction than brilliant cuts.
 
Aspect ratio of an Emerald Cut: The ratio of the length to the width should be about 1.5:1 and the VS1-2 range is recommended as a minimum Emerald cut diamonds are often 'paired' with other side stones.

The emerald cut diamond can be absolutely stunning. Because of it's long lines, it tends to be less fiery than a "round brilliant" cut, but it also tends to have broader, more dramatic flashes of light. The trim lines of emerald cut diamonds lend an elegant, sophisticated air to both the simplest and most elaborate ring settings.

Because of its large open facets, higher clarity grades (VS2 and above for GIA and VS1 and above for EGL, to ensure it is completely eye clean) are usually recommended for emerald cut diamonds.

As with the Asscher and Cushion cuts, more rectangular shapes (larger ratios) help to elongate shorter fingers.

The emerald cut is also one of the most popular and widely available non-round cuts, so you shouldn’t have too much trouble finding a decent variety of emerald cut diamonds from which to choose. Furthermore, in part because the emerald cut generally isn’t considered an “ideal” cut in the same way that the round brilliant is, emerald cut diamonds can be markedly more affordable than otherwise comparable round diamonds.

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Diamond Shapes: Princess Cut Diamond

The Princess Cut, technically known as "Square Modified Brilliant Cut", is a square version of the Round Brilliant Cut. It may have either 50 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle, 25 pavilion) or 58 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle, 33 pavilion), depending on how the pavilion is cut. This cut is most frequently a square shape where the length to width ratio is 1.05 or less.

According to Harold Newman's "Illustrated Dictionary of Jewellery", the term Princess Cut was previously applied to what is now known as the "Profile Cut" developed by Arpad Nagy of London in 1961. The same name was later used and made popular by Ygal Perlman, Betzalel Ambar, and Israel Itzkowitz in Israel, who in 1979 created the Princess cut (or Square Modified Brilliant) as it is known today.

The Princess Cut was designed for weight retention of octahedral Diamond crystals, helping to create more attractive Diamonds at more reasonable prices.

The princess cut tends to be one of the smallest of the shapes for the same carat weight since the cut is basically an upside-down pyramid with most of the carat weight in the pavilion. Princess cut diamonds with larger total depth percentages are much smaller in length and width than lower depth stones.

Always ensure that the setting for your princess cut diamond protects the four pointed corners -- these are the points most likely to chip (and why most rectangular or square diamond cuts have cropped corners).

Because of its extra facets, the Princess cut can disperse more light through the stone, this serves to hide inclusions more efficiently, making it the most brilliant of all square- and rectangular-shaped stones. It is also a popular cut for wedding bands because the stones can be arranged side by side without any gaps, making it ideal for an eternity band too. Furthermore, due to its sharply squared corners, the Princess is an ideal cut for long fingers.

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Diamond Shapes: Round Brilliant Cut Diamond

The rounds brilliant is the most popular of the diamond shapes. It is also the most brilliant of all the cuts. You may have heard of a term called “Ideal Cut“. This term refers to the attempt to cut a round diamond into the best proportions to achieve maximum brilliance. Today’s modern round brilliant diamond is precisely cut to maximize the diamond’s brilliance, fire and size.




The modern round brilliant diamond consists of 56-58 facets including the culet. Between the table and the girdle are generally thirty-two facets, and below the girdle twenty-four. The facets maximize the volume of light that is reflected from the inside and produce the greatest brilliance.

The round diamond began to rise in popularity in 1919 with the publication of Marcel Tolkowsky’s thesis “Diamond Design: A Study of the Reflection and Refraction of Light in Diamond”. Tolkowsky’s work described the ideal proportions of a round cut diamond for maximizing light return (or brilliance) and dispersion (or fire). The original Tolkowsky specifications (53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.50 crown angle, visible culet) have since been modified as the cut mechanics for round diamonds have perfected over time. These theoretical advancements, as well as advancements in technology (such as the use of lasers in diamond cutting), have been adopted by diamond manufacturers to produce the incredibly brilliant cuts we see today in well cut round diamonds.

Because of the popularity of round diamonds, all diamond stores are well-stocked with round diamonds, providing customers with the greatest range of flexibility in terms of balancing cost versus quality. In other words, whether you are on a limited budget or the “sky’s the limit”, you will likely be able to find a suitable Round Brilliant Diamond in your price range at most stores.

The round brilliant is the most versatile of all cuts both in terms of style and value. With more fire and brilliance than any other shape, this cut offers the ideal balance between cut, colour and clarity grades and budget.
For a bachelor unsure of what might please his lady, it is hard to go wrong with this classic choice.

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'The 4 C’s of Diamonds' - Diamond Carat

“Carat” is just a diamond industry special word for weight of a diamond stone. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams, or in other words, a 5-carat stone weighs 1 gram.

The word “carat” originates from the Greek word kerátion, which means carob beans, which were known in the ancient world for uniformity of their size and weight and were used as a measure of weight for different objects, including gemstones.

In the Far East instead of carob beans jewelers used rice grains to determine the weight of gemstones. Because of this fact, you may occasionally hear some jewelers referring to a 1-carat diamond a “four grainer,” which means in the past 1 carat was equal to four grains of rice.

The abbreviation ct is a shortened way to write carat, and refers to the weight of a single diamond. The abbreviation ct TW means carat total weight, and is used to express the total weight of multiple diamonds used in a piece of jewellery.

One diamond carat is divided into 100 points; a diamond that is ¾ of a carat is also 75 points. One carat is the equivalent of 0.2 grams. A large diamond with poor cut, colour and clarity will appear less eye catching than a smaller diamond with excellent cut, colour and clarity so a delicate balance is required.



Dimensions play an important role in the appearance of a diamond. In addition to the carat weight, the distance across the top of the diamond must also be taken into consideration. A common misconception is that half a carat is half the size of one carat. In fact, a half carat is half the weight of one carat, but the millimetre difference on a round stone is only 1.35mm. The average measurement for a 0.50ct stone is 5.00mm, while the average 1.00ct stone measures at 6.35mm.

While carat weight may indicate a diamond’s size, the shape and cut of a stone also play a large part in determining how large or small the stone appears. An elongated shape such as the Marquise cut may appear larger than a rounded shape such as the round brilliant even if the two stones share the same weight.

When comparing two stones of the same shape however, it is important to look at the cut grades and table and depth percentages, as shallower stones will tend to appear larger than deeper ones. Other aspects such as girdle width can also affect how large a stone appears, while not necessarily affecting the quality of the stone.

How Carat Weight Affects Value

Larger diamonds are more rare and in more demand than smaller diamonds of the same quality, so they can be sold for a higher price. A one carat diamond solitaire ring is nearly always more expensive than a diamond ring made up of multiple diamonds that are similar, but smaller, even though they total one carat or more.
Diamonds that weigh just under the next full carat are typically less expensive than diamonds passing the full-carat hurdle.

Depending on what is most important to the wearer and purchasers of the diamond, size or brilliance, the diamond Carat Weight should be either the first or last thing you choose.

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'The 4 C’s of Diamonds' - Diamond Clarity

Clarity is an indication of a diamond's purity. It describes the degree to which a diamond is free of imperfections. Clarity simply refers to the tiny, natural imperfections that occur in all but the finest diamonds. Gemologists refer to these imperfections by a variety of technical names, including blemishes and inclusions, among others.


Inclusions refer to internal flaws and blemishes refer to surface flaws. However, in the diamond grades listed below, you'll note that none of the grades include the term "blemish" -- for the purposes of grading diamonds, all flaws are called "inclusions."

Inclusions include flaws such as air bubbles, cracks, and non-diamond minerals found in the diamond. Blemishes include scratches, pits, and chips. Some blemishes occur during the cutting processes (most often at the girdle). Diamonds with no or few inclusions and blemishes are more highly valued than those with less clarity because they are rarer.

The GIA diamond grading scale is divided into six categories and eleven grades. The clarity categories and grades are:

F – Flawless - Flawless diamonds generally show no inclusions or external blemishes at 10X magnification.

IF - Internally Flawless: IF diamonds show no inclusions at 10X magnification, but they may show very subtle external blemishes that could be removed with minor repolishing.

VVS1 and VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Very difficult to see imperfections under 10x magnification. You won't see inclusions with your naked eye, and they will be difficult to find with a microscope or a loupe. An excellent quality diamond.

VS1 and VS2 - Very Slightly Included: VS1 and VS2 diamonds have minor inclusions that are seen under 10X magnification, but inclusions typically cannot be seen without the aid of a loupe or microscope. Less expensive than the VVS1 or VVS2 grades.

SI1 and SI2 -  Slightly Included: Slightly Included: Inclusions are typically visible under 10x magnification, SI clarity diamonds are usually of the best value since inclusions are not always visible to the naked eye and prices are reasonable when compared to prices of the VS2 clarity and up grades. Some SI clarity diamonds do have visible inclusions and should be evaluated carefully.

I1, I2, I3 - Included: Inclusions visible under 10x magnification AS WELL AS to the human eye and will have many black spots from the black inclusions and/or appear very cloudy or milky from the white inclusions, feathers and cracks.. We do not recommend buying diamonds in any of these grades.

Diamond graders evaluate clarity by looking at:

Size – What size is the inclusion?

Quantity – How many inclusions?

Type – What kind of inclusion? Feathers, crystals, pinpoints, needles, and clouds are examples of different types of inclusions.

Color or Relief (reflectivity) – How much does an inclusion stand out from the diamond?

Placement – Where is the inclusion located within the diamond?

After carat weight, diamond clarity has the biggest influence on price; the fewer the inclusions, the higher the price. There are many reasons why people choose higher clarity diamonds over those with lower clarity. In some cultures, higher clarity is symbolic of purity, and higher clarity diamonds are certainly more rare, but for many, a medium clarity diamond is desirable. The choice is yours.

You can either contact us on +60162211051 today or email us on kul.stones@gmail.com to arrange a consultation about your exquisite loose diamond.

'The 4 C’s of Diamonds' - Diamond Colour

The diamond colour scale was devised by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in the mid 1950's to define and regulate the colour spectrum of diamonds. The GIA proposed starting at D as the best and most colourless diamond available. The colour D was chosen because diamond dealers were already using A, B and C and a break was required to regulate and harmonize the industry. The diamond colour scale progresses through the alphabet from D until Z.

Diamond Colour Grades

• White/Colourless

Colour: D
D is the highest colour grade attributed to a diamond, denoting that the stone is completely colourless (white); as such, they are extremely rare and command the highest prices.
Colour: E
The colour difference between a D and an E graded stone is usually only visible to an expert gemmologist using master stones as a comparison, although E graded stones are slightly cheaper.
Colour: F
The colour difference between an E and an F is only visible to an expert gemologist using master stones as a comparison. F grades are the lowest and therefore least expensive of the premium colours.

• Nearly White/Colourless

Colour: G
G graded diamonds are nearly colourless and a slight colour difference only become perceptible when compared to diamonds of grades D or E. G stones appear colourless especially once set and therefore offer excellent value for money.
Colour: H
H coloured diamonds are near colourless diamonds which still appear totally white or colourless if they are not compared side by side with higher colour graded stones. The H colour is generally considered the watershed between colourless diamonds and slightly tinted diamonds. As a result, the H colour is great value for money and unsurprisingly a very popular option.

• Slightly Tinted

Colour: I
I coloured diamonds are very slightly tinted diamonds, however, once set in jewellery, these stones may appear colourless. If you are looking to maximize your budget, then an I coloured diamond offers great value for money.
Colour: J
J coloured diamonds are very slightly tinted diamonds, however, once set in jewellery, especially in yellow gold, it is harder to see the slight yellow tint which the J grade produces. If you are looking to maximize your budget or if you have a preference for slightly yellow tinted diamonds, then the J grade is a great option, offering fantastic value for money.

• Tinted Colour

Colour: K - Z
K – Z diamonds are  particularly within the light yellow and yellow ranges and do have a noticeable yellow colour to them, even to the naked and untrained eye.

When it comes to colour, those seeking a purer stone will generally only consider stones in the D to F, or premium range. However, those less concerned with classified purity but rather the appearance of a colourless stone can get great value for money in selecting a diamond within the G to I range.

If on a stricter budget, it is always worth considering a J coloured stone which offers great value for money as it can appear nearly colourless when set in certain jewellery. It is especially important to remember that jewellery settings can greatly impact the appearance of colour.


Factors That Can Affect Diamond Colour

• Mounting of the Stone

A loose diamond that appears lightly yellow to the naked eye will usually appear more colourless when mounted in a white setting -- platinum or white-gold. Mounting the same diamond in yellow-gold metal usually enhances the diamond's yellowish tone.

• Diamond Fluorescence

Another characteristic that does not affect the colour grade of a diamond but is worth keeping in mind is diamond fluorescence. When choosing a diamond, you should always look for a fluorescence of either none or faint. Medium, Strong and Very Strong fluorescence can make some diamonds appear to have a slightly blue or milky white tint in strong sunlight or under an ultraviolet light.

• Diamond Colour treatments

Various colour treatments are also undertaken for diamonds and colours can often be dramatically changed with these treatments. One such prevalent treatment is the HP/HT processing where high pressure and high temperatures are used to influence the colour of the stone. Besides these permanent treatments, various temporary coatings can also be opted for to enhance a diamond colour.

You can either contact us on +60162211051 today or email us on kul.stones@gmail.com to arrange a consultation about your exquisite loose diamond.
 

'The 4 C’s of Diamonds' - Diamond Cut

Did you know that the term diamond cut does not refer to its shape? Sure, you have to cut a diamond to make it a shape, but when gemologists say "cut," they are talking about a diamond's proportions, such as its depth and width and the uniformity of its facets--all characteristics that control brilliance, durability and other features we look for in a diamond.

The way a diamond is cut, its width, depth, roundness, size and position of the facets determine the brilliance of the stone. Even if the color and clarity are perfect, if the diamond is not cut to good proportions, it will be dull and less impressive to the eye.

 

Cut Grades

Ideal cut: These are the top quality diamonds. Producing maximum brilliance and “fire” (light dispersion), ideal-cut diamonds cannot help mesmerising the onlookers.  Represents roughly the top 3% of diamond quality based on cut. Reflects nearly all light that enters the diamond. An exquisite and rare cut. 

 

Very good cut: These diamonds create a good deal of brilliance, reflecting most of the light that enters them. These diamonds are the cutter's middle ground, when he tries to stick to the necessary proportions whilst slightly sacrificing them to create a larger diamond. This means that lots of the parameters of diamonds from this range overlap with certain parameters of diamonds from the Premium and Ideal ranges. Commonly, these diamonds are priced a bit lower than Premium cuts. Represents roughly the top 15% of diamond quality based on cut. Reflects nearly as much light as the ideal cut, but for a lower price. 

 

Good cut: These are diamonds that reflect a fair amount of the light. Their proportions are far from being ideal, because just like poor-cut diamonds they are created to keep their largest possible size rather than to mesmerise you with their optical characteristics. Diamonds from this range are the perfect option for customers who want to stay within a budget without compromising on quality or beauty.  Represents roughly the top 25% of diamond quality based on cut. Reflects most light that enters. Much less expensive than a very good cut. 

 

Fair cut: A diamond rated as fair reflects only a small amount of the light that enters it. Usually, these diamonds are cut to maximise the carat weight over other considerations. Represents roughly the top 35% of diamond quality based on cut. Still a quality diamond, but a fair cut will not be as brilliant as a good cut. 

 

Poor cut: Diamonds that are generally so deep and narrow or shallow and wide that they lose most of the light out the sides and bottom. The diamond may appear noticeably dull and lifeless, even to an untrained eye. Avoid Poor cut diamonds, even if size is the primary concern. Most find these diamonds to be an unacceptable trade off, despite the lower price.

A good diamond cut has many characteristics:

Diamond Width and Depth

The proportions of width and depth have a large impact on diamond brilliance, the reflection of white light that we see when we look at a diamond.

• Light traveling through a shallow cut diamond is lost out of the bottom of the stone and does not back into sight. The lack of light play makes shallow cut diamonds appear lifeless.
• Light traveling through a diamond that's cut too deep escapes out the sides, darkening all or portions of the stone.
• Light traveling through an ideal cut diamond bounces back out the top of the stone, bringing its brilliance into view.

Diamond Symmetry

Symmetry is a term that refers to the alignment of a diamond's facets, its flat and polished surfaces. The facets should be cut to achieve the best play of light.

The importance of symmetry is less important in diamonds that have lower clarity grades. Symmetry is more important in diamonds that have very high clarity grades.
When selecting your diamond, choose one of the following symmetry grades:

• Excellent
• Very Good
• Good

Listed below is a list of abbreviations and brief descriptions of symmetry grades that are used by GIA, EGL, and IGI.

• EX or E - Excellent, Flawless at 10 power
• VG or VGD -Very Good, Extremely difficult to locate under 10 power
• GD, GO, G - Good, Very diffucult to see under 10 power
• F, FR, FA - Fair, Noticable under 10 power
• PR, PO, P - Poor, Easy to see under 10X / Visible to unaided eye
• VP, VE, - Very Poor, Relatively easy to see with the unaided eye
• EX or EP - Extremely Poor, Obvious to see with unaided eye

Diamond Polish

Polish influences how well light is able to pass through a diamond and is very important to a diamond's brilliance. It is necessary to select a diamond that is laboratory certified with good, very good or excellent polish. Diamonds that have poor to extremely poor polish are less brilliant because they have microscopic polish lines that blur the surface of the diamond. These polish lines reduce the amount of light that enters or exits a diamond. When selecting your diamond be aware many diamonds possess poor polish. Diamond cutters can greatly reduce labor costs by not taking time to properly polish a diamond.

• EX or E - Excellent,  Flawless at 10 power
• VG or VGD - Very Good, Extremely difficult to locate under 10 power
• GD, GO, G - Good, Very difficult to see under 10 power
• F, FR, FA -  Fair, Noticeable under 10 power
• PR, PO, P -  Poor, Easy to see under 10X / Visible to unaided eye
• VP, VE, -  Very Poor, Relatively easy to see with the unaided eye
• EX or EP -  Extremely Poor, Obvious to see with unaided eye

Common Problems with Diamond Cuts

• A broken or chipped culet.
• A culet that's missing or one that's off center.
• Misaligned or extra facets.
• A girdle that is too thick, creating poor proportions, or too thin, making it easier to damage.
• A fringed girdle, with tiny cracks going into the diamond.
• A table that slopes to one side.

To be absolutely sure that you get a good diamond cut, deal only with reputable jewelers. Ask as many questions as you want to about the components of the diamond. Demand to see as many stones as possible to be able to make an effective comparison.

You can either contact us on +60162211051 today or email us on kul.stones@gmail.com to arrange a consultation about your exquisite loose diamond.

 

Why Diamond Certification Is So Important?

A certificate is actually the ""blueprint"" of a loose diamond. It is also called the diamond grading report or diamond dossier. It tells you the diamond's exact measurements and weight, as well as the details of its cut and quality. The certificate points out precisely all the individual characteristics and facets of the stone. The certificates also serve as proof of the diamond's identity and value. Without certification, there is no assurance that the diamond you are buying is of the quality you’re paying for.

A certificate, however, is not the same thing as an appraisal. A certificate describes the quality of a diamond, but it does not place monetary value on the gem. The certificate may help determine the diamond’s market value, but does not give the appraisal.

Diamonds are priceless and are valued much for their worth and excellence Loose diamonds are available in a variety of shapes. Whichever shaped diamond you buy it is very significant that the diamond be certified by an independent gemological laboratory like the International Gemological Institute (IGI), Gemological Institute of America (GIA); the American Gem Society (AGS); the European Gemological Laboratories (EGL) and GemEx Systems.

There are many diamond grading labs in operation, many of which produce their own grading reports. Different labs have different grading standards, and some labs will be more lenient with their standards compared to others.

From the prospect of investment also the diamond certification is very important. Your diamond will be easier to sell if it is properly certified. Uncertified diamonds can be certified by sending them to an independent gemological laboratory for examination. In case you loose your “diamond report” you can always get a copy of your certification from the gemological laboratory where you had it examined. It is the pedigree that goes with the diamond and becomes a valuable document in case of loss because it will ensure that your insurance company will replace your stone with another certified stone of same quality. Certificates are not appraisals since they do not contain any information regarding the value or price of a diamond.

Shopping around for graded loose diamonds allows you to make an informed choice about your selections. You can compare one diamond with a particular weight and quality with other loose diamonds of similar weight and quality to determine which has the better value.

When purchasing loose diamonds, it is always safe to do so in stores that give out a report for every loose diamond purchased. This way, one can make sure that the diamond is genuine. Some diamond stores actually boast of selling diamonds that are accompanied by a lab report from GIA or AGSL, labs that have consistently demonstrated their commitment to high standards. Some lab reports are also ready for online viewing for the virtual shoppers.

You can either contact us on  +60162211051 today or email us on kul.stones@gmail.com to arrange a consultation about your exquisite loose diamond.